Large Pores on the Face: What Actually Helps (and What Doesn't)

Why do pores look large?

A pore is simply the opening of a hair follicle and its attached oil (sebaceous) gland. Pores look larger when they are clogged with sebum and dead skin cells — which stretch them open — when oil production is high, when skin has lost elasticity with age, or when sun damage has thickened the skin around them. Genetics play a large role in baseline pore size. No skincare product can permanently change the structure of a pore, but reducing what fills and surrounds them can make them look noticeably smaller.

What actually works: evidence-backed ingredients

Retinoids. These vitamin A derivatives — retinol in over-the-counter products, tretinoin by prescription — increase cell turnover, help prevent clogging, and improve skin texture over time 1Ref 1Sitohang IBS, Makes WI, Sandora N, Suryanegara J (2022).Topical tretinoin for treating photoaging: A systematic review of randomized controlled trials.Retinoids including tretinoin increase cell turnover, reduce pore clogging, and improve skin texture — among the most studied ingredients for pore and texture improvement. They are among the most studied ingredients for visible pore improvement. Start slowly (every few nights) and apply sunscreen daily, as retinoids increase sun sensitivity.

Niacinamide. This form of vitamin B3 can reduce oiliness, calm irritation, and improve overall skin texture 2Ref 2Boo YC (2021).Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation.Niacinamide reduces sebum production, supports the skin barrier, and improves overall skin texture, which can reduce the visible appearance of pores. It is well-tolerated and pairs well with most other ingredients.

Salicylic acid (BHA). Oil-soluble and able to penetrate into pores to dissolve debris. Regular use can make pores look smaller. Do not combine multiple exfoliants unless a dermatologist advises it.

Glycolic and lactic acids (AHAs). These smooth the surface of the skin and support cell turnover.

Sun protection. UV exposure breaks down collagen and thickens the outer skin layer over time, both of which make pores look larger 3Ref 3Raymond-Lezman JR, Riskin SI (2024).Sunscreen Safety and Efficacy for the Prevention of Cutaneous Neoplasm.Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen protects against UV-driven collagen degradation and skin thickening that make pores look larger over time. A daily broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher is one of the best long-term pore-minimizing habits you can build.

Gentle, non-comedogenic cleanser. Used twice daily, it removes excess oil and surface debris without stripping skin. Avoid harsh scrubs, which can irritate and worsen oiliness.

What does not work

Pore strips. They remove surface plugs but do not prevent them from coming back and can temporarily irritate skin. They are satisfying, not therapeutic.

'Pore minimizing' primers and makeup. These blur pores temporarily and are fine cosmetically, but they do not change the underlying skin.

Steaming and ice. Popular on social media, but not supported by good evidence. Steam can loosen debris briefly but does not 'close' or 'open' pores — pores are not muscles.

Over-cleansing. Washing more than twice a day often increases oil rebound, making pores look worse.

When does pore size signal something else?

Most large pores reflect a combination of genetics, oil production, and age. Occasionally what looks like a large pore is something else:

• Sebaceous hyperplasia — small, donut-shaped yellowish bumps, more common in adults over 40, often on the nose or forehead. These are enlarged oil glands, not pores, and a dermatologist can treat them specifically.
• Closed comedones — bumps under the skin that feel rough, sometimes mistaken for textural pore changes.
• Folliculitis — inflammation of hair follicles that produces small red bumps, distinct from pore dilation.

If pores appeared suddenly or changed in texture quickly, a dermatologist can assess with magnification (dermatoscopy) to distinguish these.

When should you see a dermatologist?

If a consistent home routine — retinoid, gentle cleanser, SPF, niacinamide or BHA exfoliant — has not produced the results you want after two to three months, a dermatologist can offer prescription-strength tretinoin 1Ref 1Sitohang IBS, Makes WI, Sandora N, Suryanegara J (2022).Topical tretinoin for treating photoaging: A systematic review of randomized controlled trials.Retinoids including tretinoin increase cell turnover, reduce pore clogging, and improve skin texture — among the most studied ingredients for pore and texture improvement, chemical peels, microneedling, or laser and light treatments that target collagen remodeling. These are more powerful tools with more visible results for people who are good candidates. A dermatologist will also make sure what looks like enlarged pores is not another condition that needs a different approach.

Note: retinoids are not safe during pregnancy. A dermatologist can suggest alternatives if you are pregnant or nursing.